HORIYOSHI III - TATTOO MUSEUM

Just over an hours drive out of Tokyo lies the town of Yokohama - home of Horiyoshi the thirds tattoo studio and recently opened tattoo museum.  The museum is run by his 17 year old son, Mayumi Nakano. It consists of 2 floors and is fairly large. There is so much to look at,  but unfortunately most of the explanatory notes are in Japanese, even though western artists photo's and flash adorn the walls. It is also a well visited tattooed tourists destination.

Upon entering the tiny door Mayumi asked us for a small entrance fee. He occupied his time playing with his two miniature poodles who live in a cage next to his desk. It made a very homely atmosphere in amongst the tattoo paraphernalia. There were beautiful books, including Horiyoshi III's "100 Demons" as well as videos, postcards, ashtrays etc for sale.

Every inch of the walls were filled with amazing artwork and flash as well as photo's presented to Horiyoshi III by well known artists from all over the world, such as : Hanky Panky, Permanent Mark, Lal Hardy, Spiderwebb, Filip Leu, Don Ed Hardy and Jimmy Ho. Three ancient decorative fireman jackets are on display. The cabinets are filled with interesting pieces such as old and new machines, various home-made implements as well as tattoo sticks donated by the late great Paulo Sualuape.

A striking photo of an old Thai man covered from neck to toe in solid black tattoos is nestled amongst a collection of over 70 handmade tattoo sticks, jars of pigments and handmade machines belonging to Horiyoshi III. Photo's of Mike Tyson being tattooed by an American artist are also framed and on display.

Another display case is dedicated mainly to Charles Manson, including CD's of his music, tapes of him speaking, photo's and loads of letters. While in prison Manson wrote to Horiyoshi III almost daily - hand-written scrawls on swastika, iron-cross and eagle headed paper. Some of his letters are on display and although difficult to read due to his crazy rambling style, an excerpt from one letter follows: "This soul is forever. The night is one long night. My shadows/spirits run faster. Thoughts of you travel in grate wonder. Your masters still hold the universe in the 4 corners of this world. One is the only answer - REASON 4 time and death means nothing 2 an 4 zeros running backwards and upside down. You and yours are coming from the graves of the fathers efforts". End of quote.

Two shrivelled, mummified and tattooed feet rest in a glass case. They are from Egypt and are over 1000 years old. What a wonderful and unusual collectors piece! A large Borneo ear-piece and human bone ceremonial piece take pride of place in another cabinet. Black & white photo's of tattooed Japanese women in traditional rope tying bondage poses and Kabuki actors with traditional tattoos taken over 60 years ago. All these varied images make the museum complete.

Another very interesting display highlights Japanese tattooing when it was used as a way of marking criminals back in the 1720's. Prisoners were forcibly tattooed with different marks depending on which jail they were from, ie: Tokyo prisoners had 2 horizontal lines tattooed on one of their upper arms, while prisoners from Kyoto had 2 slanted lines on each arm or forehead.

Two small islands off the Japanese coast Hokaido and Okinawa tattooed their face and hands respectively. The Japanese have tattooing richly interwoven throughout their history. It is as popular today as ever, yet still remains an underground practice. It was a real eye-opener and a privilege to be able to visit the tattoo museums and tattoo masters that we were fortunate enough to go to. No matter how many years experience or how good a reputation an artist had we never once experienced a bad attitude. They are humble people who consider themselves forever learning and never knowing enough. It was a very refreshing experience! Memories of Japan will forever live in my heart and mind.